The oldest record of cauliflower dates back to the sixth century BCE.
They are grown for their thick, undeveloped flowers and flower stalks, not for their leaves.
Keep the soil moist but not soaked.
MULCHING
Mulch helps soil retain moisture, controls weeds and regulates soil temperatures.
If you choose not to mulch, you will have tohoe the weeds.
Cauliflowers have shallow roots, so be careful not to damage the roots if you do.
FEEDING
Cauliflowers do best in very fertile soil.
Work the soil with well-rotted animal manure or compost before planting.
Once the plants are growing well, apply seaweed extract every couple of weeks.
BLANCHING
When the cauliflower head can be easily seen, it is ready to blanch.
Tie or peg the outer leaves over the head to protect it from the sunlight.
The head should be ready to harvest a couple of weeks after blanching.
POLLINATION
Cauliflower requires cross-pollination if you want to save seeds.
Look out for caterpillars on the leaves, or the holes and droppings they leave behind.
Try planting marigolds, or other plants from the Tagetes genus, among the crop as a repellent.
Cauliflower heads can be stored in the fridge for two weeks or more.
Caterpillars are soft-bodied and therefore a favorite treat for birds and small mammals.
Use a product called Bt, or Bacillus thuringiensis.
Bt is also referred to as Dipel.
It is an organic insecticidal bacterium that kills only caterpillars and is safe to use on edibles.
It takes about 24 hours to have an effect but works a treat.
Use a garlic or soap spray.
Apparently the white cabbage moth will go crazy for it and lay its eggs all over it.
When the young caterpillars hatch and eat it they will keel over.
This stops the butterflies and moths from landing on the plants to lay their eggs.
If this is the case you’re able to hand-pollinate.
